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Getting out of debt can feel overwhelming — especially if you’re broke or living on a low income. When you’re struggling to cover everyday living expenses, finding extra money to pay down debt might seem impossible. Minimum payments barely make a dent, and the cycle of debt just keeps going.

The good news? No matter your financial situation, there are strategic steps you can take to reduce and eventually eliminate your debt. The key is persistence, planning, and making the most of the resources you have. Here’s a step-by-step guide to help you get out of debt, even if your income is limited.

Begin by Creating a Budget

The first step to getting out of debt with no money is building a basic budget. While budgeting might sound like a punishment, it’s really a tool for empowerment. It helps you understand where your money is going and gives you a plan to use it more effectively.

Evaluating Income vs. Expenses

Start by gathering the last few months of financial statements, then use them to calculate your average monthly income and average monthly spending. If you find that you tend to spend as much as (or more than) you earn each month, your budget needs adjusting. This could mean reducing expenses, increasing your income, or both.

Tracking Every Dollar

To find places to cut your spending, it helps to list out your typical spending categories and how much you’re spending on each, on average, each month. Another option is to track your spending for a month or two using a budgeting app that automatically tallies and categories your expenses in real time.

Once you see exactly where your money is going, you can identify areas to reduce spending and redirect that money toward your debt.

💡 Quick Tip: With average interest rates lower than credit cards, a personal loan for credit card debt can substantially decrease your monthly bills.

Categorizing Needs vs. Wants

Once you’ve tracked your expenses, you’ll want to separate them into two categories: needs and wants. Needs are essential expenses like rent, groceries, medications, and utilities. Wants are nonessentials like dining out, entertainment, and impulse purchases. Understanding this distinction helps you prioritize spending — and start making cuts in the right places.

Change Your Spending Habits

How you manage your day-to-day spending can make or break your journey out of debt. Small changes add up, and the sooner you adjust your habits, the faster you’ll see progress.

Cut Subscriptions and Reduce Discretionary Spending

An easy way to free up funds is to cut some line items out of your budget completely. For example, you might cancel streaming services you rarely watch or a membership to a gym you seldom use.

Also look for ways to chip away at discretionary spending. For example, you might brew your morning coffee at home rather than buy it at the local coffee bar, cook more meals and eat out less, and pause clothing or hobby shopping unless it’s essential. These changes don’t have to be forever — just until you get your debt under control.

Use Cash or Debit Only

If you’re trying to pay off debt with no money, it’s wise to avoid adding to that debt balance. One way to do that is to switch to paying cash or debit for all purchases. This adds a layer of accountability because you can’t spend more than you currently have in the bank. You can also try the envelope system — using actual cash and envelopes or digitally with an app — to help you stick to spending limits in each category.

Delay Gratification and Set Spending Rules

For nonessential purchases, consider adopting the 24-hour rule: This involves waiting a full day before you buy something you don’t truly need. This delay gives you time to evaluate the purchase, consider whether you really want it and can afford it, and potentially avoid regretful spending. You can also set monthly spending limits for categories like entertainment, eating out, or clothing — and stick to them.

Recommended: How to Avoid Using Savings to Pay Off Debt

Increase Your Income

If cutting expenses still doesn’t leave room for debt repayment, increasing your income becomes critical. Fortunately, there are ways to do this without needing a second full-time job.

Take on a Side Hustle or Gig Work

Today’s gig economy offers a range of opportunities to earn extra cash. Whether it’s walking dogs, babysitting, delivering food or groceries, assembling furniture, or merely standing in line, side hustles are more available than ever before. If you have professional skills — like writing, editing, web development, graphic design, marketing, social media, or tutoring — you might pick up extra income by freelancing.

Any extra earnings can be funneled right into paying down debt.

Sell Unused Items or Assets

Look around your home for things you no longer need, such as clothes, gadgets, furniture, or collectibles. Selling them on platforms like Facebook Marketplace, OfferUp, or eBay can generate quick cash to make an extra payment.

Use Windfalls or Refunds Strategically

If you receive a tax refund, work bonus, rebate, or cash gift, resist the urge to spend it. Instead, put it toward your highest-interest debt to speed up your payoff timeline.

Apply for a Lower Interest Rate

High interest rates can trap you in debt longer. Reducing them makes every dollar you pay go further.

Negotiate With Lenders

Don’t be afraid to call your lenders and ask for a lower interest rate. Be honest about your situation, especially if you’ve been making payments on time. Some creditors are willing to reduce rates or waive fees to help you stay on track.

You might also enlist the help of a nonprofit credit counseling organization. For a small fee, they will negotiate with your creditors on your behalf to lower rates and set up a payment plan you can afford. You then make a monthly payment to the organization and they distribute the payments to your lenders.

Use Balance Transfers

If you have a good credit score, you might qualify for a balance transfer credit card that offers 0% interest for an introductory period. This can give you breathing room to pay down your balance faster. Just make sure you pay it off before the promo period ends — or you could face high interest again.

Consider a Personal Loan

If you’re juggling multiple high-interest debts, consolidating them into a single loan may simplify repayment and reduce your costs — if you qualify for a lower interest rate.

💡 Quick Tip: Before choosing a personal loan, ask about the lender’s fees: origination, prepayment, late fees, etc. One question can save you many dollars.

Pros and Cons of Consolidating Debt With a Loan

Using a personal loan to pay off debt comes with benefits as well as potential drawbacks. Here are some to consider.

Pros

•  Potentially lower interest rate: If you qualify for a consolidation loan with a lower interest rate than your current credit cards, you can save money on interest charges over time.

•  Simplified payments: Consolidating multiple bills into one makes it easier to manage and keep track of your payments.

•  Faster debt repayment: If you’re able to get a loan with a lower interest rate and potentially a shorter repayment period, you may be able to pay off your debt faster.

•  Can help you build credit. Paying down your balances lowers your credit utilization ratio (how much of your available credit you are currently using), which is factored into your credit scores. Also, making consistent, on-time payments on the consolidated debt can have a positive impact on your credit profile over time.

Cons

•  Short-term credit score impact: Applying for a new loan for consolidation can result in a hard inquiry on your credit report, which can temporarily lower your score.

•  Need good credit to qualify for favorable rates: If your credit is fair or poor, you may not qualify for consolidation loans with significantly lower interest rates than you’re paying on your credit cards. This can negate the primary benefit of consolidation.

•  Fees and add-on charges: Some debt consolidation loans may involve paying fees, such as origination fees, application fees, and late fees, which can add to your costs.

•  Risk of accumulating more debt: If your spending habits don’t change, you might accumulate new debt on the old credit cards once they’re paid off, leading to a worse financial situation than before consolidation.

Use a debt consolidation calculator to estimate whether this strategy could work in your favor.

The Takeaway

Getting out of debt with little to no money is a difficult journey — but it’s entirely possible with focus and the right strategy. Start by understanding your financial situation, cutting unnecessary spending, and creating a practical budget. From there, look for ways to boost your income, lower your interest rates, and be intentional with every financial decision.

Debt freedom generally doesn’t happen overnight. It typically takes small, consistent actions, a willingness to make sacrifices, and a commitment to changing long-term habits. But every step you take can build momentum and help you change your financial situation for the better.

Think twice before turning to high-interest credit cards. Consider a SoFi personal loan instead. SoFi offers competitive fixed rates and same-day funding. See your rate in minutes.

FAQ

How do I pay off debt with no savings?

If you have no savings, start by creating a realistic budget and identifying nonessential expenses to cut. Focus on making minimum payments on all debts to avoid penalties, then direct any extra funds to the smallest balance (debt snowball) or highest interest rate (debt avalanche), ticking off debts one by one.
Other helpful steps include increasing income through side gigs or selling unused items and contacting creditors to see if they might lower your interest rate. Progress may be slow at first, but consistency is key.

Can I negotiate my debt if I have no money?

Yes, many creditors are willing to negotiate if you explain your financial hardship. Start by contacting them directly and asking about options like lower interest rates, reduced payments, or temporary forbearance. In some cases, you may be able to settle your debt for less than you owe, though this can impact your credit. Be honest and document all communication. If you’re overwhelmed, consider working with a nonprofit credit counseling agency to help you negotiate and manage your debts.

What’s the fastest way to get out of debt while broke?

When you’re broke, getting out of debt fast means combining aggressive budgeting with creative income strategies. You’ll want to cut unnecessary expenses, pause subscriptions, and track every dollar. At the same time, try to boost income through side gigs, freelance work, or selling unused items. Other key moves include tackling debt one by one and calling your creditors to request lower rates or payment plans. It won’t be easy, but focused effort can create real progress even with limited means.

Should I consider a personal loan if I have no savings?

A personal loan can consolidate high-interest debts and simplify payments, but it’s risky without savings. If you lose income or face an emergency, you might struggle to keep up with the new loan. Before applying, review your credit score and compare interest rates to ensure the loan actually lowers your costs. Consider this option only if you have a stable income and a clear repayment plan. Otherwise, explore budgeting, negotiating with creditors, or credit counseling as safer first steps.

How can I build an emergency fund while paying off debt?

Start small — you might aim for a $500 emergency fund before aggressively tackling debt. To get there, set aside $10 to $25 per week by cutting nonessentials like dining out or unused subscriptions. Automate your savings so it becomes a habit, and use windfalls like tax refunds, cash gifts, or side hustle income to grow your fund faster. Having even a modest cushion prevents you from relying on credit cards during emergencies, which helps you stay on track with debt repayment in the long run.

SoFi Loan Products
SoFi loans are originated by SoFi Bank, N.A., NMLS #696891 (Member FDIC). For additional product-specific legal and licensing information, see SoFi.com/legal. Equal Housing Lender.

SOPL-Q325-019

You’ve saved for a down payment, and you’re ready to cover closing costs. But do you have enough cash and assets to cover your mortgage reserves?

Lenders sometimes require that homebuyers have mortgage reserves in order for the loan to be approved at application and then funded on the day of closing. But what are mortgage reserves, and how much might you need to have set aside? Below, we’ll review what assets qualify as mortgage reserves and when you might need them.

What Are Mortgage Reserves?

Mortgage reserves are the cash and other assets that homebuyers can access in the event they need help covering their mortgage payments for a set number of months. Such reserves are a kind of fail-safe in the event a buyer is laid off or otherwise loses a revenue stream.

In some cases, lenders require you to prove you have such reserves before funding your home mortgage loan. Requirements can range from as little as one month of reserves (i.e., all your mandatory housing costs for a month) to six months or more.

Luckily for homebuyers, lenders consider more than just the money in your checking and savings accounts as mortgage reserves. Money and assets that can be classified as mortgage reserves include:

•   Money in a deposit account (not only checking and savings, but also money market accounts and certificates of deposit)

•   Stocks and bonds

•   Trust accounts

•   Cash value in a life insurance policy

•   Vested retirement funds, such as money in 401(k)s and IRAs

Keep in mind that money in your savings account that you’ll use for the down payment and closing costs does not count toward your mortgage reserves. Mortgage reserves are money and assets that you will have access to after closing.

Still crunching the numbers on your dream home? Use our mortgage calculator to understand just how much you might spend.

Recommended: What Is a Bank Reserve?

Do All Types of Mortgages Require a Reserve?

Not every borrower will need mortgage reserves when buying a home. Requirements depend on the type of mortgage you’re applying for, as well as your overall financial picture (credit score, debt-to-income ratio, and size of your down payment, for instance).

The table below breaks down potential mortgage reserve requirements by loan type:

Why do these requirements vary? Lenders may have different rules depending on whether a government agency is guaranteeing the loan, or whether the home will be your primary residence or if it’s an investment property.

Lenders may also have stricter mortgage reserve requirements if you’re making a small down payment, you have a high debt-to-income ratio, or if your credit score is too low (typically anything below a 700 credit score can warrant larger reserves if the borrower is making a down payment of less than 20 percent).

Recommended: Tips to Qualify for a Mortgage

Tips for Building Your Mortgage Reserves

Saving up for a down payment can be challenging on its own, but cobbling together enough cash reserves for a mortgage loan can make it even tougher. Here are some tips for building your home loan reserves:

Decrease Spending

Take a good, hard look at your budget to figure out how to stop spending money that you could be saving. Common culprits include dining out, streaming services, cups of coffee on your way to work, and memberships and subscriptions. Determine what you can cut out of your life — just for now — to reduce your monthly spending.

You may also be able to lower your utility bills by making some simple, eco-friendly updates in your current home. Also consider carpooling or using public transportation to reduce fuel costs, and raise your deductible on your car insurance to get a lower monthly premium. Finally, clip coupons and look for deals when shopping for groceries.

Use a Certificate of Deposit

If you know you’ll be buying a home within a few years, store some savings in a certificate of deposit (CD). Though the money is less liquid than funds in a savings account, it still counts toward your mortgage reserves and a CD may offer a higher interest rate, so your money will grow faster.

Set Aside a Chunk of Your Income

When you get each paycheck, intentionally move some into a high-yield savings account that’s earmarked for your mortgage reserves. (You can also do this when saving for the down payment for your home.)

Automatically setting aside some of your income for a specific purpose can make it a lot easier to resist the temptation to spend it on other things, like clothes and vacations.

Take Up a Side Gig

If you’ve cut all the expenses you can and you’re still coming up short, think about how you can earn more money. You can always ask for a raise at work, but you may have more luck taking on a side hustle to earn extra income. That doesn’t always mean getting a second job — there are passive income ways to build wealth.

Boost Your Retirement Contributions

Mortgage reserves don’t have to be money in your bank account. Retirement contributions to IRAs and 401(k)s (if vested) also count toward your reserves, and these may grow faster than money in a high-yield savings account, depending on how the market is doing.

Even better, if your employer matches contributions to a 401(k), that’s an easy way to quickly increase your mortgage reserves. And it’s free money!

What Happens If You Don’t Meet the Mortgage Reserve Requirements?

Mortgage reserve requirements are called that for a reason: They’re required. Just like the down payment and closing costs, if your lender asks for mortgage reserves, you will absolutely need them in order to have your mortgage loan funded. You’ll be asked to note these assets on a mortgage application.

If the lender discovers prior to the closing that you don’t have the reserve for the mortgage, it can back out.

The Takeaway

Mortgage reserves are cash and assets you can use to cover your housing costs for a set number of months if something happens and you suddenly can’t afford your mortgage. Depending on your credit score, down payment, the type of property you’re purchasing, and the type of mortgage loan you’re looking for, you may need to have mortgage reserves set aside in order to get approved for a home loan.

Looking for an affordable option for a home mortgage loan? SoFi can help: We offer low down payments (as little as 3% - 5%*) with our competitive and flexible home mortgage loans. Plus, applying is extra convenient: It's online, with access to one-on-one help.

FAQ

What is the difference between cash reserves and mortgage reserves?

Mortgage reserves are a type of cash reserves. Cash reserves broadly refers to money set aside for short-term needs and emergencies, like sudden job loss; cash reserves can get you through a certain number of months’ worth of expenses. Mortgage reserves are money and assets put aside specifically to cover housing costs for a set number of months and may be required for some home loans.

Mortgage reserves are specifically money set aside to cover housing costs for a set number of months and may be required for some home loans.

Can I use retirement savings as mortgage reserves?

Retirement savings can count toward your mortgage reserves. If you’re using 401(k) funds in the total calculation, they must be vested.

How long do I need to maintain mortgage reserves?

Lenders may require mortgage reserves as a condition of giving you a mortgage. Usually, they can’t ensure that you keep that money on hand after the closing. However, it’s a good idea to have mortgage reserves available if you need them, especially since assets like retirement accounts qualify;

Can I use gift funds for mortgage reserves?

You can use gift funds for mortgage reserves for an FHA loan, as well as certain other loans with some restrictions. Gift funds refers to money or assets donated to a homebuyer, usually from a loved one, without the expectation of repayment.

Photo credit: iStock/FilippoBacci

*SoFi requires Private Mortgage Insurance (PMI) for conforming home loans with a loan-to-value (LTV) ratio greater than 80%. As little as 3% down payments are for qualifying first-time homebuyers only. 5% minimum applies to other borrowers. Other loan types may require different fees or insurance (e.g., VA funding fee, FHA Mortgage Insurance Premiums, etc.). Loan requirements may vary depending on your down payment amount, and minimum down payment varies by loan type.

SoFi Mortgages
Terms, conditions, and state restrictions apply. Not all products are available in all states. See SoFi.com/eligibility-criteria for more information.

SoFi Loan Products
SoFi loans are originated by SoFi Bank, N.A., NMLS #696891 (Member FDIC). For additional product-specific legal and licensing information, see SoFi.com/legal. Equal Housing Lender.

SOHL-Q325-037

Many homebuyers swimming in the pool of new mortgage terminology may wonder how mortgage principal differs from their mortgage payment. Simply put, your mortgage principal is the amount of money you borrowed from your mortgage lender.

Knowing what your mortgage principal is and how you can pay it off more quickly than the average homeowner could save you a lot of money over the life of the loan. Here’s what you need to know about paying off the principal on a mortgage.

Mortgage Principal Definition

Mortgage principal is the original amount that you borrowed to pay for your home. It is not the amount you paid for your home; nor is it the amount of your monthly mortgage payment.

Each month when you make a payment on your mortgage loan, a portion goes toward the original amount you borrowed, a portion goes toward the interest payment, and some goes into your escrow account, if you have one, to pay for taxes and insurance.

Your mortgage principal balance will change over the life of your loan as you pay it down with your monthly mortgage payment, as well as any extra payments. This changing balance may be called your outstanding mortgage principal. (While there is a difference between outstanding mortgage principal vs. mortgage principal balance, the terms are often used interchangeably.) Your equity will increase while you’re paying down the principal on your mortgage.

Mortgage Principal vs Mortgage Interest

Your mortgage payment consists of both mortgage principal and interest. Mortgage principal is the amount you borrowed. Mortgage interest is the lending charge you pay for borrowing the mortgage principal. Both are included in your monthly mortgage payment, and your mortgage statement will likely include a breakdown of how much of your monthly mortgage payment goes to mortgage principal vs. interest.

When you start paying down principal, as the mortgage amortization schedule will show you, most of your payment at this point will go toward interest rather than principal. Later on in the life of your loan, you’ll be paying more mortgage principal vs. interest.

Hover your cursor over the amortization chart of this mortgage calculator to get an idea of how a given loan might be amortized over time if no extra payments were made.

Mortgage Principal vs Total Monthly Payment

Your total monthly payment is divided into parts by your mortgage servicer and sent to the correct entities. It includes principal plus interest, and often other components.

Fees and Expenses Included in the Monthly Payment

Your monthly payment isn’t typically just made up of principal and interest. Most borrowers are also paying installments toward property taxes and homeowners insurance each month, and some pay mortgage insurance, too. In the industry, this is often referred to as PITI, for principal, interest, taxes, and insurance.

A mortgage statement will break all of this down and show any late fees.

Escrow for Taxes and Insurance

Among the many mortgage questions you might have for a lender, one should be whether you’ll need an escrow account for taxes and insurance or whether you can pay those expenses in lump sums on your own when they’re due. Many lenders prefer to take on the responsibility for your taxes and insurance in order to protect their investment, but they will charge you for those costs in your mortgage payments and hold that money in an escrow account until needed.

Conventional mortgages typically require an escrow account if you borrow more than 80% of the property’s value. In the world of government home loans, FHA and USDA loans need an escrow account, and lenders usually want one for VA-backed loans. If you live in a flood zone and are required to have flood insurance, an escrow account may be mandatory.

Private Mortgage Insurance (PMI)

When you get a conventional loan and put down less than 20% of the home’s value, your lender will require you to pay private mortgage insurance (PMI).It will probably want to handle this through an escrow account also, to avoid the possibility of your making late payments.

Benefits of Paying Additional Principal on Mortgage

Making extra payments toward principal will allow you to pay off your mortgage early and will decrease your interest costs, sometimes by an astounding amount.

If you make extra payments, you may want to let your mortgage servicer know that you want the funds to be applied to principal instead of the next month’s payment.

Could you face a prepayment penalty? Conforming mortgages signed on or after January 10, 2014, cannot carry one. Nor can FHA, USDA, or VA loans. If you’re not sure whether your mortgage has a prepayment penalty, check your loan documents or call your lender or mortgage servicer.

Reducing Interest Over Time

If you make additional payments toward your principal, you will decrease the amount of money that you’re being charged interest on, as your principal balance drops. This means that in the long run, you would end up paying less interest than if you simply made your payments as scheduled.

Shortening the Loan Term

It can be helpful – and motivating – to keep an eye on how your mortgage payments are impacting your principal balance and how much of them is going to interest. There are a couple of easy ways to do this.

Amortization Schedules

An amortization schedule can be a big help in understanding your mortgage payments and how you’re paying down principal on your mortgage. Essentially, it’s a chart that lists each planned payment for the entirety of your mortgage, detailing how much of each will go to principal and how much to interest. You’ll also see how much principal you still owe after each payment.

To get a full amortization schedule for the life of your loan, you may need to sign on to your account online or contact your lender and request the schedule.

Mortgage Statements

The easiest way to keep track of how much you’re currently paying on your mortgage principal and interest is to look at your mortgage statements every month. The mortgage servicer will send you a statement with the amount you owe and how much it will reduce your principal each month. You may also see the breakdown for your previous payment and/or for the year to date, as well as your total outstanding mortgage principal. If you have an online account, you can usually see the numbers there.

How to Pay Down Mortgage Principal Balance

Paying off the mortgage principal is done by making extra payments. Because the amortization schedule is set by the lender, a high percentage of your monthly payment goes toward interest in the early years of your loan.

When you make extra payments or increase the amount you pay each month (even by just a little bit), you’ll start to pay down the principal instead of paying the lender interest.

It pays to thoroughly understand the different types of mortgages that are out there.

Biweekly Payment Strategy

One tactic homeowners use is biweekly payments. Traditionally, you pay your mortgage once a month. But if you pay it every two weeks – which often aligns with pay schedules – you’ll be making an extra payment every year. That may not sound like much, but it can let you finish your loan term up to six or more years early.

Applying Windfalls Toward Principal

A relatively painless way to prepay principal is to apply any “extra” money you get – like a work bonus or an unexpected bequest – toward your principal. If you have a solid emergency fund in place and no higher-interest debts to pay off, this could be a good place to put your money.

The Takeaway

Knowing exactly how mortgage principal, interest, and amortization schedules work can be a powerful tool that can help you pay off your mortgage principal faster and save you a lot of money on interest in the process.

Looking for an affordable option for a home mortgage loan? SoFi can help: We offer low down payments (as little as 3% - 5%*) with our competitive and flexible home mortgage loans. Plus, applying is extra convenient: It's online, with access to one-on-one help.

FAQ

What is the mortgage principal amount?

The mortgage principal is the amount you borrow from a mortgage lender and must pay back. It is not the same as your mortgage payment. Your mortgage payment will include both principal and interest, as well as any escrow payments you need to make.

How do you pay off your mortgage principal?

You can pay off your mortgage principal early by paying more than your mortgage payment. Since your mortgage payment is made up of principal and interest, any extra that you pay can be taken directly off the principal – just make sure that your lender knows you want the extra funds applied there. If you never make extra payments, you’ll take the full loan term to pay off your mortgage.

Is it advisable to pay extra principal on a mortgage?

Paying extra on the principal will allow you to build equity, pay off the mortgage faster, and lower your costs on interest. Whether you can fit it in your budget or if you believe there is a better use for your money depends on your personal situation.

What is the difference between mortgage principal and interest?

Mortgage principal is the amount you borrow from a lender; interest is the amount the lender charges you for borrowing the principal.

Can the mortgage principal be reduced?

When you make extra payments or pay a lump sum to your lender, you can specify that those funds should be applied to your mortgage principal. This will reduce your principal and your interest payments.

Does your monthly principal payment change?

Yes. Since loans are typically amortized, at the beginning of the loan term, most of your monthly payment will be applied toward your interest charges. Over time, that balance will shift as you pay down your mortgage, and principal will be most of each payment that you make closer to the end of your loan. Your decreasing principal amount is sometimes called your outstanding mortgage principal vs. mortgage principal balance.

Photo credit: iStock/PeopleImages

*SoFi requires Private Mortgage Insurance (PMI) for conforming home loans with a loan-to-value (LTV) ratio greater than 80%. As little as 3% down payments are for qualifying first-time homebuyers only. 5% minimum applies to other borrowers. Other loan types may require different fees or insurance (e.g., VA funding fee, FHA Mortgage Insurance Premiums, etc.). Loan requirements may vary depending on your down payment amount, and minimum down payment varies by loan type.

SoFi Mortgages
Terms, conditions, and state restrictions apply. Not all products are available in all states. See SoFi.com/eligibility-criteria for more information.

SoFi Loan Products
SoFi loans are originated by SoFi Bank, N.A., NMLS #696891 (Member FDIC). For additional product-specific legal and licensing information, see SoFi.com/legal. Equal Housing Lender.

SOHL-Q325-035

Why is it risky to invest in a commodity — and why is it a good idea? In this article, we’ll give you a crash course on commodity risk and trading.

Asset allocation is an investment strategy that helps you decide the ratio of different asset classes in your portfolio to ensure that your investments align with your risk tolerance, time horizon, and goals.

In other words, the way you allocate, or divide up the assets in your portfolio, helps to balance risk, while aiming for the highest potential return within the time period you have to achieve your investment goals. Here’s what you need to know about asset-based asset allocation.

What Is Age-Based Asset Allocation?

The mix of assets you hold will likely shift with age. When you’re younger and have a longer time horizon, you might want to hold more stocks, which offer the most growth potential. Also, that longer time horizon gives you plenty of years to help ride out volatility in the market.

You will likely want to shift your asset allocation as you get older, though. As retirement age approaches, and the point at which you’ll need to tap your savings draws near, you may want to shift your retirement asset allocation into less risky assets like bonds and cash equivalents to help protect your money from downturns.

In the past, investment advisors recommended a rule of thumb whereby an investor would subtract their age from 100 to know how much of their portfolio to hold in stocks. What is an asset allocation that follows that rule? A 30-year-old might allocate 70% of their portfolio to stocks, while a 60-year-old would allocate 40%.

However, as life expectancy continues to increase — especially for women — and people rely on their retirement savings to cover the cost of longer lifespans (and potential healthcare expenses), some industry experts and advisors now recommend that investors keep a more aggressive asset allocation for a longer period.

The new thinking has shifted the formula to subtracting your age from 110 or 120 to maintain a more aggressive allocation to stocks.

In that case, a 30-year-old might allocate 80% of their portfolio to stocks (110 – 30 = 80), and a 60-year-old might have a portfolio allocation that’s 50% stocks (110 – 60 = 50) — which is a bit more aggressive than the previous 40% allocation.

These are not hard-and-fast rules, but general guidelines for thinking about your own asset allocation strategy. Each person’s financial situation is different, so each portfolio allocation will vary.

💡 Quick Tip: All investments come with some degree of risk — and some are riskier than others. Before investing online, decide on your investment goals and how much risk you want to take.

Asset Allocation Models by Age

As stated, age is a very important consideration when it comes to strategic asset allocation. Here are some asset allocation examples for different age groups.

Asset Allocation in Your 20s and 30s

For younger investors, the conventional wisdom suggests they may want to hold most of their portfolio in stocks to help save for long-term financial goals like retirement.

That said, when you’re young, your financial footing may not be very secure. You probably haven’t built much of a nest egg, you may change jobs relatively frequently, and you may have debt, such as student loans, to worry about. Setting up a potentially volatile, stock-focused allocation might feel nerve-wracking.

If you have a 401(k) at work, this might be your primary investment vehicle — or you may have set up an IRA. In either account you can invest in mutual funds or exchange-traded funds (ETFs) that hold a mix of stocks, providing some low-cost diversification without sacrificing the potential for long-term growth.

You could also invest in a target date fund, which is designed to help to manage your asset allocation over time (more on these funds below).

When choosing funds, it’s important to consider both potential performance and fees. Index funds, which simply mirror the performance of a certain market index, may carry lower expense ratios but they may generate lower returns compared to, say, a growth fund that’s more expensive.

Remember that the younger you are, the longer you have to recover from market downturns or losses. So allocating a bigger chunk of your investments to growth funds or funds that use an active management strategy could make sense if you feel their fees are justified by the potential for higher returns — and the higher risk that comes along with it.

And of course, you can counterbalance higher-risk/higher-reward investments with bonds or bond funds (as a cushion against volatility), index funds (to help manage costs) or target date funds (which can do a bit of both). Just be aware that the holdings within some funds can overlap, which could hamper your diversification strategy and require you to choose investment carefully.

Asset Allocation in Your 40s and 50s

As you enter middle age you are potentially entering your peak earning years. You may also have more financial obligations, such as mortgage payments, and bigger savings goals, such as sending your kids to college, than you did when you were younger. On the upside, you may also have 20 years or more before you’re thinking about retiring.

In the early part of these decades, one approach is to consider keeping a hefty portion of your portfolio still allocated to stocks. This may be useful if you haven’t yet been able to save much for your retirement because you’d be able to add potential growth to your portfolio, and still have some years to ride out any volatility.

Depending on when you plan to retire, adding stability to your portfolio with bonds as you approach the latter part of these decades might be a wise choice. For example, you may want to begin by shifting more of your IRA assets to bonds or bond funds at this stage. These investments may produce lower returns in the short term compared to mutual funds or ETFs. But they can be useful for generating income once you’re ready to begin making withdrawals from your accounts in retirement.

Asset Allocation in Your 60s

Once you hit your 60s and you’re nearing retirement age, your allocation will likely shift toward fixed-income assets like bonds, and maybe even cash. A shift like this can help prepare you for the possibility that markets may be down when you retire.

If that’s the case, you might be able to use these fixed-income investments to provide income during the downturn, so you can avoid selling stocks while the markets are down since doing so would lock in losses and might curtail future growth in your portfolio. Thus, leaning on the fixed-income portion of your portfolio allows time for the market to recover before you need to tap into stocks.

If you haven’t retired yet, you can continue making contributions to your 401(k) to grow your nest egg and take advantage of any employer match.

If you chose to invest in a target date fund within your retirement account when you were younger, it’s likely that fund’s allocation would now be tilting toward fixed-income assets as well.

Retirement Asset Allocation

Once you’ve retired it may seem like you can kick back and relax with all of your asset allocation worries behind you. Yet, your portfolio allocation is as important to consider now as it was in your 20s.

When you retire, you’ll likely be on a fixed income — and you won’t be adding to your savings with earned wages. Your retirement could last 20 to 30 years or more, so consider holding a mix of assets that includes stocks that might provide some growth. Keeping a modest stock allocation might help you avoid outliving your savings and preserve your spending power.

While that may sound contrary to the suggestion above for pre-retirees to keep more of their assets allocated to fixed-income, the difference is the level of protection you might want just prior to retirement. Now as an official retiree, and thinking about the potential decades ahead, you may want to inject a little growth potential into your portfolio.

It might also make sense to hold assets that grow faster than the rate of inflation or are inflation-protected, such as Treasury Inflation-Protected Securities, or TIPS, which can help your nest egg hold its value.

These are highly personal decisions that, again, go back to the three intersecting factors that drive asset allocation: your goals, risk tolerance, and time horizon. There’s no right answer; the task is arriving at the right answer for you.

Understanding Assets and Asset Classes

At its heart, a financial asset is anything of value that you own, whether that’s a piece of property or a single stock. When you invest, you’re typically looking to buy an asset that will increase in value.

The three broad groups, or asset classes, that are generally held in investment accounts are stocks, bonds, and cash. When you invest, you will likely hold different proportions of these asset classes.

Asset Allocation Examples

What are some asset allocation examples? Well, your portfolio might hold 60% stocks, 40% bonds, and no cash — or 70% stocks, 20% bonds, and 10% in cash or cash equivalents. But how you decide that ratio gets into the nuts and bolts of your actual asset allocation strategy, because each of these asset types behaves differently over time and has a different level of risk and return associated with it.

•   Stocks. Stocks typically offer the highest rates of return. However, with the potential for greater reward comes higher risk. Typically, stocks are the most volatile of these three categories, especially in the short term. But over the long term, the return on equities (aka stocks) has generally been positive. In fact, the S&P 500 index, a proxy for the U.S. stock market, has historically returned an average of 10% annually (approximately 7% when adjusted for inflation).

•   Bonds. Bonds are traditionally less risky than stocks and offer steadier returns. A general rule of thumb is that bond prices move in the opposite direction of stocks.

When you buy a bond, you are essentially loaning money to a company or a government. You receive regular interest on the money you loan, and the principal you paid for the bond is returned to you when the bond’s term is up. When buying bonds, investors generally accept smaller returns in exchange for the security they offer.

•   Cash. Cash, or cash equivalents, such as certificates of deposit (CDs) or money market accounts, are the least volatile investments. But they typically offer relatively low returns.

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How Do Diversification and Rebalancing Fit In?

The old adage, “Don’t put all your eggs in one basket,” is apt for a number of concepts in investing.

Putting all of your money in one investment may expose you to too much risk. When it comes to asset allocation, you can help manage risk by spreading money out over different asset classes that are then weighted differently within a portfolio.

Here is a possible asset allocation example: If your stock allocation was 100%, and the stock market hit a speed bump, your entire portfolio could lose value. But if your allocation were divided among stocks, bonds, and cash, a drop in the value of your stock allocation wouldn’t have the same impact. It would be mitigated to a degree, because the bonds and cash allocation of your portfolio likely wouldn’t suffer similar losses (remember: bond prices generally move in the opposite direction of stocks, and cash/cash equivalents rarely react to market turmoil).

Diversification

Portfolio diversification is a separate, yet related, concept. Simple diversification can be achieved with the broader asset classes of stocks, bonds, and cash. But within each asset class you could also consider holding many different assets for additional diversification and risk protection.

For example, allocating the stock portion of your portfolio to a single stock may not be a great idea, as noted above. Instead, you might invest in a basket of stocks. If you hold a single stock and it drops, your whole stock portfolio falls with it. But if you hold 25 different stocks — when one stock falls, the effect on your overall portfolio is relatively small.

On an even deeper level, you may want to diversify across many types of stock — for example, varying by company size, geography, or sector. One way some investors choose to diversify is by holding mutual funds, index funds, or ETFs that themselves hold a diverse basket of stocks.

Rebalancing

What is rebalancing? As assets gain and lose value, the proportion of your portfolio they represent also changes. For example, say you have a portfolio allocation that includes 60% stocks and the stock market ticks upward. The stocks you hold might have appreciated and now represent 70% or even 80% of your overall portfolio.

In order to realign your portfolio to your desired 60% allocation, you might rebalance it by selling some stocks and buying bonds. Why sell securities that are gaining value? Again, it’s with an eye toward managing the potential risk of future losses.

If your equity allocation was 60%, but has grown to 70% or 80% in a bull market, you’re exposed to more volatility. Rebalancing back to 60% helps to mitigate that risk.

The idea of rebalancing works on the level of asset allocation and on the level of asset classes. For example, if your domestic stocks do really well, you may sell a portion to rebalance your domestic allocation and buy international stocks.

You can rebalance your portfolio at any time, but you may want to set regular check-ins, whether quarterly or annually. There may be no need to rebalance if your asset allocation hasn’t really shifted. One general rule to consider is the suggestion that you rebalance your portfolio whenever an asset allocation changes by 5% or more.

What’s the Deal with Target Date Funds?

One tool that some investors find useful to help them set appropriate allocations is a target date fund. These funds, which were described briefly above, are primarily for retirement, and they are typically geared toward a specific retirement year (such as 2030, 2045, 2050, and so on).

Target funds hold a diverse mix of stocks and fixed-income investments. As the fund’s target date approaches, the mix of stocks and bonds the fund automatically adjusts to a more conservative allocation — aka the fund’s “glide path.”

For example, if you’re 35 and plan to retire at 65, you could purchase shares in a target-date fund with a target date 30 years in the future. While the fund’s stock allocation may be fairly substantial at the outset, as you approach retirement the fund will gradually increase the proportion of fixed-income assets that it holds.

Target-date funds theoretically offer investors a way to set it and forget it. However, they also present some limitations. For one, you don’t have control over the assets in the fund, nor do you control how the fund’s allocation adjusts over time.

Target funds are typically one-size-fits-all, and that doesn’t always work with an individual’s unique retirement goals. For example, someone aggressively trying to save may want to hold more stocks for longer than a particular target date fund offers. Also, as actively managed funds, they often come with fees that can take a bite out of how much you are ultimately able to save.

The Takeaway

While many investors spend time researching complex issues like bond yields and options trading, understanding and executing a successful asset allocation strategy — one that works for you now, and that you can adjust over the long term — can be more challenging than it seems.

Although asset allocation is a fairly simple idea — it’s basically how you divide up different asset classes in your portfolio to help manage risk — it has enormous strategic implications for your investments as a whole. The three main factors that influence your asset allocation (goals, risk tolerance, and time horizon) seem straightforward enough as separate ideas, yet there is an art and a science to combining them into an asset allocation that makes sense for you. Like so many other things, arriving at the right asset allocation is a learning process.

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FAQ

What does asset allocation mean?

Asset allocation refers to the percentage of an overall investment portfolio that an investor sets aside for different types of assets or investments, such as stocks, bonds, cash, or alternative investments.

Is asset allocation the same as diversification?

Portfolio diversification is a separate, yet related, concept. Simple diversification can be achieved with the broader asset classes of stocks, bonds, and cash. But within each asset class you could also consider holding many different assets for additional diversification and risk protection.

Why might your asset allocation change as you get older?

Your goals and risk appetite might change as the years go by, and as such, your portfolio’s composition could change or be reallocated to reflect that.

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