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Closing costs average 2% to 5% of your mortgage loan principal. So even if you’ve saved for a down payment on a new place, you are likely going to have to dig somewhat deeper to afford to seal the deal. How deep, you ask? For buyers, closing costs can add up to a significant sum.

Whether you are a first-time homebuyer or a seasoned property purchaser, it’s wise to know what to expect, in terms of both money and process, when it’s time to gather at the closing table. Payments will be due from both the buyer and the seller.

Get ready to delve into this important home-buying topic and learn:

•   What are closing costs?

•   How much are closing costs on a house?

•   Who pays closing costs?

•   How much are closing costs for the buyer and the seller?

•   How can you lower closing costs?

What Are Closing Costs?

Closing costs are the fees needed to pay the professionals and businesses involved in securing a new home. These range from fees charged by appraisers, real estate agents, and title companies, to lender and home warranty fees.

Here are some key points to know:

•   When you apply for a mortgage loan, each lender must provide a loan estimate within three business days. This will give you information such as closing costs, interest rate, and monthly payment. Review those closing costs carefully.

•   Your closing costs will depend on the sale price of the home, the fees the chosen lender charges, the type of loan and property, and your credit score.

•   Closing costs are traditionally divided between the buyer and seller, so you won’t necessarily be on the hook for the whole bill. That said, the exact division between buyer and seller will depend on your individual circumstances and can even be a point of negotiation when you make an offer on a house.

How Much Are Closing Costs?

As noted above, average closing costs on a house typically range from 2% to 5% of the mortgage principal. Let’s say you take out a $300,000 mortgage loan to buy a house with an agreed-upon sale price of $350,000. Your closing costs could be between $6,000 and $15,000, or 2% and 5%.

Be aware that a “no closing cost mortgage” often means a higher rate and a lot more interest paid over the life of the loan. The lender will pay for many of the initial closing costs and fees but charge a higher interest rate.

Good news if you are buying a HUD home: HUD will pay some of the closing costs as well as the real estate commission fee usually paid by the seller.

Recommended: First-Time Homebuyer Guide

Calculate Closing Costs

The tool below is a home affordability calculator, and it’s a great way to also see what the potential closing costs and additional monthly costs would be based on how much home you can afford.

Who Pays Closing Costs?

Typically, closing costs are paid by both the buyer and the seller. Each has their own responsibilities to uphold.

Some fees are specific to the purchase and are payable by the buyer. These include title search, prepaid interest on the mortgage loan, and more.

Other costs are the seller’s responsibility: paying the real estate agent and so forth. Read on to learn more about who pays for what when closing on a home sale.

How Much Are Closing Costs for a Buyer?

Typically, the buyer pays the following closing costs:

•   Abstract and recording fees: These fees relate to summarizing the title search (more on that below) and then filing deeds and documentation with the local department of public records. You may find that abstract fees can cost anywhere from $200 to $1,000, and recording fees in the range of $125.

•   Application fee: Your lender may charge you to process your application for a mortgage loan. This could cost up to $500.

•   Appraisal and survey fees: It is easy to be wooed by pristine wood floors and dining room walls covered in vintage wallpaper, but surface good looks will only get you so far. You and your lender want to make sure that your potential new home is actually worth the purchase price. This means paying professionals to delve more deeply and provide a current market value. These home appraisal and survey fees are typically due at closing. This is usually in the $300 to $600 range, but could be considerably higher, depending on the home, its location, and other factors.

•   Attorney costs: Working with a real estate attorney to review and vet documents may be an hourly rate (typically $150 to $500 per hour) or a project fee (such as $750 or $1,500). The specifics will vary depending on the individual professional you use, your location, and how complex your purchase is.

•   Credit reporting, underwriting, and origination fees: The lender may charge anywhere from $10 to $100 per applicant to check their credit score; underwriting fees (often in the $300 to $750 range) may also be added to closing costs. Origination fees can be about 0.5% to 1% of your loan’s value and cover the costs of the lender creating your loan documents.

•   Flood certification fee: The lender may require a flood certification, which states the flood zone status of the property. This could cost anywhere from $170 to $2,000, depending on your state.

•   Home inspection fee: This will likely cost between $187 and $510, but it could go higher. This is paid by the buyer, who is commissioning the work to learn about the home’s condition. In some cases, it may be paid at the time of service rather than at closing.

•   Homeowners insurance: Your lender may require you to take out homeowners insurance. The first payment may be due at closing. The exact amount will depend on your home value and other specifics of your policy.

•   Home warranty: A home warranty is optional and can be purchased to protect against major mechanical problems. A warranty plan may be offered by the seller as part of the deal, or a buyer can purchase one from a private company. Your lender, however, will not require a home warranty.

•   Mortgage points: Each mortgage point you choose to buy costs 1% of your mortgage amount and typically lowers your mortgage rate by 0.25% per point. That point money you are paying upfront is due at closing. All the mortgage fees will be spelled out in the mortgage note at the closing.

•   Prepaid interest: Some interest on your mortgage is probably going to accrue between your closing date and when the first payment is due on your loan. That will vary with your principal and interest rate, but will be due at closing.

•   Private mortgage insurance: Often lenders require PMI if you make a down payment that is less than 20% of the purchase price. Putting less money down can make a buyer look less reliable when it comes to repaying debt in the eyes of lenders. They require this premium to protect themselves. This is usually a fee that you pay monthly, but the first year’s premium can also be paid at the time of closing. Expect a full year to cost between .5% and 2% of the original loan amount. Expect to pay between $3o and $70 a month for every $100,000 you are borrowing.

•   Title search and title insurance fees: When a title search is done to see if there are any other claims on the property in question, the buyer typically pays the fee, which is usually in the $75 to $200 range. The lender often requires title insurance as a protection. This is likely a one-time fee that costs between 0.1% and 2% of the sale price. If your house costs $400,000, the title insurance could be between $4,000 and $8,000.

As you see, some of these fees will vary greatly depending on your specific situation, but they do add up. You’ll want to be sure to estimate how much closing costs are for a buyer and then budget for them before you head to your closing.

Recommended: How Long Does It Take to Close on a House

How Much Are Closing Costs for a Seller?

You may also wonder what closing costs are if you are selling your home. Here are some of the fees you are likely liable for at closing:

•   Real estate agent commission: Typically, the seller pays the agent a percentage of the sale price of the home at closing, often out of the proceeds from the sale. The commission is likely to be in the 3% to 6% range, and may be equally split between the buyer’s and seller’s agents.

•   Homeowners association fees: If the home being sold is in a location with a homeowners association (HOA), any unpaid fees must be taken care of by the seller at closing. The actual cost will depend upon the home being sold and the HOA’s charges.

•   Property taxes: The seller must keep these fees current at closing and not leave the buyer with any unpaid charges. These charges will vary depending on the property and location.

•   Title fees: The seller will probably pay for the costs associated with transferring the title for the property.

It’s important for sellers to anticipate these costs in order to know just how much they will walk away with after selling a home.

How to Reduce Closing Costs

Closing costs can certainly add up. Here are some ways to potentially lower your costs.

•   Shop around. Compare lenders not just on the basis of interest rates but also the fees they charge. Not every mortgage lender will charge, say, an application, rate lock, loan processing, and underwriting fee. See where you can get a competitive rate and avoid excess fees.

•   Schedule your closing for the end of the month. This can lower your prepaid interest charges.

•   Seek help from your seller. You might be able to get the seller to pay some of your closing costs if they are motivated to push the deal through. For instance, if the property has sat for a while, they might be open to covering some fees to nudge the sale along.

•   Transfer some costs into your mortgage payments. You may be able to roll some costs into the mortgage loan. But beware: You’ll be raising your principal and interest payments, and might even get stuck with a higher interest rate. Proceed with caution.

Other Costs of Buying a Home

In addition to your down payment and closing costs, you also need to make sure that you can afford the full monthly costs of your new home. That means figuring out not only your monthly mortgage payment but all the ancillary costs that go along with it.

Understanding and preparing for these costs can help ensure that you are in sound financial shape for your first few years of homeownership:

Principal and interest. Your principal and interest payment is the amount that you are paying on your home loan. This can be estimated by plugging your sales price, down payment, and interest rate into a mortgage calculator. This number is likely to be the biggest monthly expense of homeownership.

Insurance. Your homeowners insurance cost should be factored into your monthly ownership expenses. Your insurance agent can provide you with details on what this policy will cover.

Property taxes. Property tax rates vary throughout the country. The rates are typically set by the local taxing authorities and may include county and city taxes. It’s important to factor in these costs as you think about your ongoing home-related expenses.

Private mortgage insurance. As mentioned, PMI may be required with a down payment of less than 20%. PMI is usually required until you have at least 20% equity in your home based on your original loan terms.

Homeowners association fees. If you live in a condo or planned community, you may also be responsible for a monthly homeowners association fee for upkeep in the common areas in your community.

Of course, these are just some of the things to budget for after buying a home. Your needs will depend on whether you are moving a long distance, whether you have owned a home before, and other factors. It’s a lot to think about, but it’s an exciting time.

The Takeaway

Before buyers can close the door to their new home behind them and exhale, they must be able to afford their down payment, qualify for a mortgage loan, and pay the closing costs — usually 2% to 5% of the loan amount. A home loan hunter may want to compare estimated closing costs in addition to rates when choosing a lender. It can be a smart way to keep expenses down.

Looking for an affordable option for a home mortgage loan? SoFi can help: We offer low down payments (as little as 3% - 5%*) with our competitive and flexible home mortgage loans. Plus, applying is extra convenient: It's online, with access to one-on-one help.

FAQ

How can I estimate closing costs?

Typically, closing costs will cost between 2% and 5% of your home loan’s amount.

When do I pay closing costs?

Your closing costs are typically paid at your closing. That is when you take ownership of the property and when your home mortgage officially begins.

*SoFi requires Private Mortgage Insurance (PMI) for conforming home loans with a loan-to-value (LTV) ratio greater than 80%. As little as 3% down payments are for qualifying first-time homebuyers only. 5% minimum applies to other borrowers. Other loan types may require different fees or insurance (e.g., VA funding fee, FHA Mortgage Insurance Premiums, etc.). Loan requirements may vary depending on your down payment amount, and minimum down payment varies by loan type.

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SoFi loans are originated by SoFi Bank, N.A., NMLS #696891 (Member FDIC). For additional product-specific legal and licensing information, see SoFi.com/legal. Equal Housing Lender.

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No matter your age, it’s probably a good time to think about getting life insurance. It’s a key step in financial planning, so let’s get to know the two main types – term and permanent – so you can understand which is the right option to protect your loved ones.

First, a crash course in what insurance is: When you purchase a life insurance policy, you make recurring premium payments. Should you die while covered, your policy will pay a lump sum that you’ve selected to the beneficiaries you have designated. It’s an important way to know that if you weren’t around, working hard, your loved ones’ expenses (housing, food, medical care, tuition, etc.) would be covered.

Granted, no one wants to imagine leaving this earth, but buying life insurance can give you tremendous peace of mind.

Types of Life Insurance

Now that the basic concept is clear, let’s take a closer look at the two types of life insurance policies: term and permanent.

Term life insurance offers coverage for a certain amount of time, while permanent life insurance provides coverage for the policyholder’s whole life as long as premiums are paid. (These policies come in a variety of options. We’ll break those down for you in a moment.) There’s no right or wrong type; only a policy that is right for you and your needs. Figuring out which one will be easier once you understand the eight different kinds of life insurance and the needs they were designed to satisfy.

1. Term Life Insurance

Term life insurance, as the name suggests, protects a policyholder for a set amount of time. It pays a death benefit to beneficiaries if the insured person dies within that time frame. Term life insurance coverage usually ranges from 5 to 30 years. Typically, all payments and death benefits are fixed.

There are several reasons why a term life insurance policy might be right for you. Perhaps there is a specific, finite expense that you need to know is covered. For instance, if covering the years of a mortgage or college expenses for loved ones is a priority, term life insurance may make the most sense.

These policies can be helpful for young people too. If, say, you took out hefty student loans that are coming due and your parents co-signed, you might want to buy a life insurance policy. The lump sum could cover that debt in a worst-case scenario.

Another reason to consider term life insurance: It tends to be more affordable. If you don’t need lifelong coverage, a term policy might be an excellent choice that’s usually easier on your budget.

A few variables to be aware of:

•   Term life insurance may be renewable, meaning its term can be extended. This is true “even if the health of the insured (or other factors) would cause him or her to be rejected if he or she applied for a new life insurance policy,” according to the Insurance Information Institute. Renewal of a term policy will probably trigger a premium increase, so it’s important to do the math if you’re buying term insurance while thinking, “I’ll just extend it when it ends.”

•   If you would be comfortable with your coverage declining over time (that is, the lump sum lowering), consider looking into the option known as decreasing term insurance.

💡 Quick Tip: Term life insurance coverage can range from $100K to $8 million. As your life changes, you can increase or decrease your coverage.

2. Whole Life Insurance

Whole life insurance is the most common type of permanent life insurance, which protects policyholders for the duration of their lives.

As long as the premiums are paid, whole life insurance offers a guaranteed death benefit whenever the policyholder passes. In addition to this extended covered versus term life insurance, whole life policies have a cash value component that can grow over the policy’s life.

Here’s how this works: As a policyholder pays the premiums (these are typically fixed), a portion goes toward the cash value, which accumulates over time. We know the terminology used in explaining insurance can get a little complicated at times, so note there’s another way this may be described. You may hear this referred to as your insurance company paying dividends into your cash value account.

This cash value accrues on a tax-deferred basis, meaning you, the policyholder, won’t owe taxes on the earnings as long as the policy stays active. Also worth noting: If you buy this kind of life insurance and need cash, you can take out a loan (with interest being charged) against the policy or withdraw funds. If a loan is unpaid at the time of death, it will lower the death benefit for beneficiaries.

The cash value component and lifelong coverage of this type of life insurance can be pretty darn appealing. And it may be a good fit for funding a trust or supporting a loved one with a disability. However, buying a whole life policy can be pricey; it can be many multiples of the cost of term insurance. It’s definitely a balancing act to determine the coverage you’d like and the price you can pay.

For those who are not hurting in the area of finances, whole life can have another use. A policy can also be used to pay estate taxes for the wealthy. For individuals who have estates that exceed the current estate tax exemption (IRS guideline for 2024) of 13.6 million, the policy can pay the estate taxes when the policyholder dies.

3. Universal Life Insurance

Who doesn’t love having freedom of choice? If you like the kind of protection that a permanent policy offers, there are still more varieties to consider. Let’s zoom in on universal life insurance, which may provide more flexibility than a whole life policy. The cash account that’s connected to your policy typically earns interest, similar to that of a money market. While that may not be a huge plus at this moment, you will probably have your life insurance for a long time, and that interest could really kick in.

What’s more, as the cash value ratchets up, you may be able to alter your premiums. You can put some of the moolah in your cash account towards your monthly payments, which in some situations can really come in handy.

This kind of policy is also sometimes called adjustable life insurance, because you can decide to raise the benefit (the lump sum that goes to your beneficiaries) down the road, provided you pass a medical exam.

4. Variable Life Insurance

Do you have an interest in finance and watch the market pretty closely? We hear you. Variable life insurance could be the right kind of permanent policy for you. In this case, the cash value account can be invested in stocks, bonds, and money market funds. That gives you a good, broad selection and plenty of opportunity to grow your funds more quickly. However, you are going to have more risk this way; if you put your money in a stock that fizzles, you’re going to feel it, and not in a good way. Some policies may guarantee a minimum death benefit, even if the investments are not performing well.

This volatility can play out in other ways. If your investments are performing really well, you can direct some of the proceeds to pay the premiums. But if they are slumping, you might have to increase your premium payment amounts to ensure that the policy’s cash value portion doesn’t fall below the minimum.**

This kind of variable life insurance policy really suits a person who wants a broader range of investment options for the policy’s cash value component. While returns are not guaranteed, the greater range of investments may yield better long-term returns than a whole life insurance policy will.

5. Variable Universal Life Insurance

Variable universal life insurance is another type of a permanent policy, but it’s as flexible as an acrobat. If you like to tinker and tweak things, this may be ideal. Just as the name suggests, it merges some of the most desirable features of variable and universal plans. How precisely does that shake out for you, the potential policyholder? For the cash account aspect of your policy, you have all the rewards (and possible risks) of a variable life insurance policy that you just learned about above. You have a wide array of ways to grow your money, which puts you in control.

The features that are borrowed from the universal life model are the ability to potentially change the death benefit amount. You can also adjust the premium payments. If your cash account is soaring, you can use that money towards your monthly costs…sweet! It’s a nice bonus, especially if funds are tight.

6. Indexed Universal Life Insurance

This is another type of permanent life insurance with a death benefit for your beneficiaries as well as a cash account. You may see it called “IUL.”

In this instance, the cash account earns interest based on how a stock-market index performs. For instance, the money that accrues might be linked to the S&P (Standard & Poor’s) 500 composite price index, which follows the shifts of the 500 biggest companies in America. These policies may offer a minimum guaranteed rate of return, which can be reassuring.

On the other hand, there may be a cap on how high the returns can go. A IUL insurance plan may be a good fit if you are comfortable with more risk than a fixed universal life policy, but don’t want the risk of a variable universal life insurance product.

7. Guaranteed or Simplified Issue Life Insurance

With most life insurance policies, some form of medical underwriting is required. “Underwriting” can be one of those mysterious insurance terms that is often used without explanation. Here’s one aspect of this that you should know about.

Part of the approval process for underwritten policies involves using information from exams, blood tests, and medical history to determine the applicant’s health status, which in turn contributes to the calculated monthly costs of a policy. Underwriting serves an important purpose: It helps policyholders pay premiums that coincide with their health status. If you work hard at staying in excellent health, you are likely to be rewarded for that with lower monthly payments.

However, sometimes insurance buyers don’t want to go through that process. Maybe they have health issues. Or perhaps they don’t want to wait the 45 or 60 days that underwriting often requires before a policy can be issued. With guaranteed or simplified issue life insurance, the steps are streamlined. Applicants may not have to take a medical exam to qualify and approvals come faster.

These policies tend to have lower death benefits (think $10,000, $50,000, or perhaps $250,000 at the very high end) than the other types of life insurance we’ve described. Less medical underwriting also means policies tend to be more expensive. Who might be interested in this kind of insurance? It may be a good option for someone who is older (say, 45-plus), has an underlying medical condition that would usually mean higher insurance rates, or has been rejected for another form of insurance. The coverage may suit the needs of someone looking for insurance really quickly, like the uninsured people who, during the COVID-19 pandemic, wanted to sign up ASAP.

One point to be aware of: Many of these policies have what’s called a graded benefit or a waiting period. This usually means that the beneficiaries only receive the full value of the policy if the insured has had it for over two years. If the policyholder were to die before that time, the payout would be less — perhaps just the value of the premiums that had been paid.

Of the two kinds we’ve mentioned, guaranteed is usually the easiest to qualify for (as the name suggests) but costs somewhat more than the simplified issue variety, which tends to have a few more constraints. You might be deemed past the age they insure or a medical condition might disqualify you.

Worth noting: You may hear these life insurance policies are known as final expense life insurance or burial insurance. As with any simplified issue or guaranteed issue life insurance policies, no medical exam is required. These plans typically have a small death benefit (up to $50,000 in many cases) that is designed to cover funeral costs, medical bills, and perhaps credit card debt at the end of life.

8. Group Life Insurance

Group life insurance is often not something you go out and buy. Typically, it’s a policy that’s offered to you as a benefit by an employer, a trade union, or other organization. If it’s not free, it is usually offered at a low cost (deducted from your payroll), and a higher amount may be available at an affordable rate. Since an employer or entity is buying the coverage for many people at once, there are savings that are passed along to you.

That said, the amount of coverage is likely to be low, perhaps between $20,000 and $50,000, or one or two times your annual salary. Medical exams are usually not required, and the group life insurance will probably be a term rather than permanent policy,

A couple of additional points to note:

•   There may be a waiting period before you are eligible for the insurance. For instance, your employer might stipulate that you have to be a member of the team for a number of months before you can access this benefit.

•   If you leave your job or the group providing coverage, your policy is likely to expire. You may have the option to convert it to an individual plan at a higher premium, if you desire.

Deciding Which Life Insurance Is Best for You

So many factors go into creating that “Eureka!” moment in which you land on the right life insurance policy for you. Your age, health, budget, and particular needs play into that decision.

If you need life insurance only for a certain amount of time, you may want to select a term life insurance policy that dovetails with your needs. Covering a child’s college and postgraduate years is a common scenario. Another is taking out a policy that lasts until your mortgage is paid off, to know your partner would be protected.

A term life insurance policy may also be a good fit for someone who has a limited budget but needs a substantial amount of coverage. Since term policies have a specific coverage window, they are often the more affordable option.

For someone who needs coverage for life and wants a cash accumulation feature, a permanent policy such as whole life insurance might be worth considering. Not only will this policy stay in place for life (as long as the premiums are paid), but the cash value element allows use of the funds to pay premiums or any other purpose.

Permanent life insurance lets you know that, whenever you pass on, funds will be there for your dependents. It can be a great option if you have, say, a loved one who can’t live independently, and you want to know they will have financial coverage. Whole life insurance is typically more expensive than term life insurance, but the premium remains the same for the insured’s life.

In terms of when to buy life insurance, here are a few points to keep in mind:

•   It’s best to apply when you’re young and healthy so you can receive the best rate available.

•   Typically, major life events signal people to buy life insurance. These are moments when you realize someone else is depending on you (and, not to sound crass, your income). It could be when you marry or have a child. It could be when you realize a relative will need long-term caregiving.

•   Even if you are older or have underlying health conditions, there are options available to you. They may not give as high an amount of coverage as other life insurance policies, but they can offer a moderate benefit amount and give you a degree of peace of mind.

💡 Quick Tip: With life insurance, one size does not fit all. Policies can and should be tailored to fit your specific needs.

The Takeaway

Picking out the right life insurance policy can seem complicated, but in truth, the number of choices just reflects how easy it can be to get the right coverage for your needs. There’s truly something for everyone, regardless of your age or budget. Whether you opt for term, permanent, group, or guaranteed issue, you can get the peace of mind and protection that all insurance plans bring.

SoFi has partnered with Ladder to offer competitive term life insurance policies that are quick to set up and easy to understand. Apply in just minutes and get an instant decision. As your circumstances change, you can update or cancel your policy with no fees and no hassles.

About the author

Ashley Kilroy

Ashley Kilroy is a seasoned personal finance writer with 15 years of experience simplifying complex concepts for individuals seeking financial security. Her expertise has shined through in well-known publications like Rolling Stone, Forbes, SmartAsset, and Money Talks News. Read full bio.

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The average retirement savings by age depends on people’s income, expenses, and even where they live (with some states having higher retirement savings rates than others). The older you are, the more likely you are to prioritize retirement savings.

How much have Americans saved for retirement? While nearly half (46%) of households have no retirement savings, those that do have an average of about $334,000 saved, according to the Federal Reserve Board’s 2022 Survey of Consumer Finance, which is the most recent data available.

If you look at the median amount Americans have saved in retirement accounts such as IRAs, 401(k) and 403(b) plans, pensions, and so forth, that number is lower: about $87,000 per household.

Average Retirement Savings By Age

Below is a breakdown of retirement savings by age group, ranging from people in their 20s to people in their 70s, according to the 2022 Survey of Consumer Finance.

Average Retirement Savings Before Age 35: $49,130

Most Americans in their 20s and early 30s haven’t reached their peak earning years, and many might be paying off student loans, and saving up to buy a house or have kids. Retirement isn’t always top of mind.

But the earlier people can figure out which retirement plan is right for them and commit to actually starting a retirement savings plan, the more they will benefit from compound growth over time.

Average Retirement Savings, Age 35 to 44: $141,520

With their careers and lives generally more established, many people are making more money at this age than they ever have. It can be tempting to spend more on lifestyle choices (e.g., vacations, cars, furniture). Many people also have mortgages, families, and other big-ticket expenses during this time in their lives.

But those who put that money towards retirement may be able to reach their retirement goal with greater confidence. Granted, it can be difficult to juggle competing priorities, but taking advantage of employer-provided retirement accounts, matching funds, and automatic transfers to savings can all help busy people make progress.

Recommended: How to Save for Retirement at 30

Average Retirement Savings, Age 45 to 54: $313,220

At this age, some Americans are on track to reach their retirement goals, while others are far off. There are still ways to catch up, such as cutting unnecessary expenses, moving to a smaller home, or putting any additional pay, income, or bonuses into retirement accounts.

In addition, many retirement accounts offer what’s known as a catch-up provision, which is a way to add more money to certain accounts, once you’re over age 50. Starting in 2025, there is also a new policy that allows people between 60 and 64 to save an extra amount in an employer-sponsored plan.

Average Retirement Savings, Age 55 to 64: $537,560

Although the goal for many is to retire at about age 65, many Americans have to keep working since they don’t have enough savings. In some cases, people plan on working at this stage of life anyway, although it’s not always easy to find work. Ideally, working in later years of life would be a choice and not a necessity.

Retirement contributions tend to increase as people age partly because they are earning more and partly because they are thinking about retirement more — and in some cases because other expenses are lower. For example: Your kids may be done with college, or you may have paid off your mortgage.

Average Retirement Savings, Age 65 to 74: $609,320

Many people in this age group have embarked on retirement, thanks to years of self-directed investing (although many retirees may have consulted a professional as well). This is a time when people need to evaluate the amount they have saved in light of how long they are likely to live — which is the most significant factor impacting retirees, in addition to the cost of living.

It may be possible to enjoy some years of travel, starting a business, helping raise grandchildren — or other adventures. Or it may be a time to adjust living expenses in order to make one’s savings last.

Target Retirement Savings by Age

Because the cost and standard of living varies so greatly, there aren’t clear dollar figure amounts that each age group should aim to have saved for retirement. But there are suggested guidelines, and numerous ways to save for retirement as well.

Retirement Savings Benchmarks

•   By age 30: It’s generally recommended that people save an amount equal to their annual salary by the time they reach age 30. That may not be a realistic goal for many people, but it can be a general guideline or goal to aspire to.

One way to achieve this is to save 10-15% of one’s gross income starting in one’s 20s. Some employers will match 401(k) contributions if employees save a certain amount each month, so it’s a good idea to contribute at least that much to take advantage of what is essentially free money.

•   By age 40: It’s recommended that investors have three to four times their annual salary saved by age 40.

•   By age 50: Investors are typically advised to have six times their salary saved by age 50.

•   By age 60: It’s recommended that investors have eight times their salary saved by age 60.

•   By age 67: Investors are typically advised to have ten times their salary saved by age 67, which is considered full retirement age for Social Security for many Americans.

For example, if a 67-year-old makes $75,000 per year, ideally they would aim to have $750,000 saved, more or less, at the point at which they actually retire and start to claim Social Security.

Is Anyone Saving Enough for Retirement?

Despite the above recommendations, most Americans don’t have nearly these amounts in their retirement accounts. As noted, a significant percentage of Americans don’t have any retirement savings at all — and that includes Americans who are near retirement age.

In a recent SoFi survey of adults aged 18 and over, 59% had either no retirement savings or less than $49,000.

So, while some people are saving enough for retirement, many people aren’t. And relying on Social Security benefits isn’t likely to cover all of a retiree’s living expenses.

Social Security and Your Retirement

Social Security was designed to help people pay some of their expenses during retirement, but it was always assumed these benefits would be part of an individual’s larger income plan, which might include a pension and personal savings.

As a result, Social Security benefits are generally modest. As of January 2025, the estimated average Social Security payment for a retired worker was around $1,976 per month. But benefit amounts can be higher or lower, depending on your earning history, how old you are when you file, and other factors.

Perspectives on Social Security Vary Widely

In addition, people have different perspectives about Social Security. According to SoFi’s recent retirement survey, some adults think it will be their main source of income in retirement, while others see it as a supplement to other income sources. And some people aren’t counting on Social Security at all.

Perceptions of Social Security Perceptions in Retirement

•   41% Perceive SS as a supplementary source of income

•   31% Perceive SS as a their primary source of income

•   16% Aren’t relying on SS as a source of income

•   12% Aren’t sure how to perceive SS in their retirement plans

Source: SoFi Retirement Survey, April 2024

The fact that nearly a third of respondents believe Social Security could be their primary source of income reveals a lack of awareness of these benefits and how they work. And it points to a need for greater education around the need for personal savings and careful financial planning.

Strategies to Maximize Retirement Savings

It can be stressful to feel behind on saving for retirement, but it’s never too late to start.

There are several ways to save for retirement — but a good place to start, if you haven’t already, is by creating a budget to track expenses. This allows you to see where your money is going and identify categories of spending that could be reduced. It’s then possible to direct some of those savings to a retirement account, such as a traditional IRA, or a work-sponsored plan such as a 401(k) or 403(b).

Some retirement plans also have catch up options for those who start late — typically, individuals older than 50 can contribute extra funds to their retirement accounts.

No matter how much you put aside for retirement, or whether you contribute to a traditional IRA or a Roth IRA, a 401(k) or an after-tax investment account, a good strategy is to automate savings. With automated savings, the money is deducted from your paycheck or your bank account automatically — making it easy to forget that the money was ever in the account in the first place.

Recommended: Comparing the SIMPLE IRA vs. Traditional IRA

Retirement Account Options

Whether you’re employed full-time, working part-time, or you’re self-employed, there are many types of retirement account options available. Following is a selection of common retirement accounts, but there are others as well.

Bear in mind: Most retirement accounts offer different tax advantages, as well as strict rules about annual contribution limits, withdrawals and early withdrawals, loans, and required minimum distributions (RMDs). Be sure to understand the terms, to ensure a the plan you choose can help you reach your goals before funding a retirement account.

Individual Retirement Accounts, or IRAs

With an IRA, you open and fund a tax-advantaged IRA account yourself or for a custodian (e.g., a minor child). IRAs are for individuals, and are not offered by employers. That said, small businesses may offer a special type of IRA.

IRAs come in two flavors: traditional and Roth IRAs. When considering a Roth IRA vs traditional it’s important to understand the tax implications of each type of account. Traditional IRAs take tax-deferred contributions. This means your contributions are pre-tax, and can reduce your taxable income. You owe ordinary income tax on withdrawals.

Roth IRAs are considered after tax, because you deposit funds that have been taxed already. Qualified withdrawals are tax free.

Recommended: Roth IRA vs Traditional IRA: Key Differences

Employer-Sponsored Plans

A 401(k) plan is a tax-advantaged plan typically offered to the employees of a company. A 403(b) and 457(b) are similar, but offered by governments, schools, churches, or non-profit organizations that are tax exempt.

Traditional accounts allow employees to contribute pre-tax dollars, but withdrawals are taxed as income in retirement. Roth versions of these accounts (you may be able to set up a Roth 401(k) or Roth 403(b) account) allow after-tax contributions, and qualified tax-free withdrawals.

Self-Employed and Small Business Accounts

•   A Saving Incentive Match Plan for Employees, or SIMPLE IRA plan, is also a tax-deferred account, similar to a traditional IRA. But these accounts are designed for small businesses with 100 employees or less (including sole proprietors, and people who are self-employed).

As a result, the contribution limits for SIMPLE IRAs are higher, and the tax treatment of these plans is slightly different.

•   A SEP IRA is a Simplified Employee Pension Plan that small businesses and self-employed individuals can fund. Here, the employer makes the contributions. Employees do not. Like a SIMPLE IRA, the annual contribution limits are generally higher than for standard IRAs.

The Takeaway

The average American household has about $334,000 in retirement accounts, e.g., IRAs, 401(k) and 403(b) plans, pensions, and so forth. The number varies depending on age groups and other factors. Knowing how much others in your age group are saving for retirement can help provide a benchmark for evaluating whether you’re making the progress you envision.

There are a number of different formulas, calculations, and rules of thumb to help individuals figure out how much money they’ll need in retirement. While these figures can be helpful, it’s also important to take personal goals, financial responsibilities, and lifestyle into consideration.

Ready to invest for your retirement? It’s easy to get started when you open a traditional or Roth IRA with SoFi. SoFi doesn’t charge commissions, but other fees apply (full fee disclosure here).

FAQ

How much money do I need to retire comfortably?

Calculating the amount you need to retire comfortably is highly personal. It depends on how long you’re likely to live, how healthy you are, as well as the lifestyle you envision. It may be worth consulting with a professional to lay out different options, and what the financial implications may be, as this can influence how much you save as well as your investment strategy.

What percentage of my income should I save for retirement?

The general rule of thumb is to save between 10% and 20% of your income for retirement. The exact amount will depend on many factors, including whether you’re saving for yourself or also for a spouse; what your likely longevity will be; whether you might have other financial sources of income (e.g., from a trust or an inheritance); and the retirement lifestyle you hope to have.

When should I start saving for retirement?

Given that you could live as many years in retirement as you did while you were working, the odds are that you might need more savings than you anticipated. In that light, it’s wise to start as soon as you can, and maximize the savings opportunities available to you.

What happens if I start saving for retirement late?

If you get a late start on retirement, it’s even more important to maximize your savings and your investing strategy. As an older saver, it can be hard to recover from market volatility, so you want to be cautious. It may make sense to work with a professional.

How do I catch up on retirement savings?

Catching up on retirement savings can mean boosting the percentage you save, pairing another retirement account, such as an IRA, with your employer plan, making sure you get your employer match, and — for those 50 and up — being sure to take advantage of catch-up provisions that allow you to save more in most retirement accounts. For those between the ages of 60 and 64, a “super catch-up” amount is now allowed in most employer plans.